CENTRAL ANATOLIAN REGION

The central Anatolian plateau, ochre-hued, cleft by ravines and dominated by volcanic peaks, forms the heartland of Turkey . Covered with wheat fields and outlined with ranks of poplars, the boldly contoured steppe has a solitary majesty.

This plateau was one of the cradles of human civilization. At Catalhoyuk, remains of settlements from as early as the eighth millennium B.C. have been unearthed. The homeland of many people and the historic battleground of East and West, here the Hattis, Hittites, Phrygians, Galatians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks and Ottomans all fought for their sovereignty and established their rule. In the 11th century, the migrating Turks from the east made the plateau their own. During its turbulent history, Central Anatolia has endured invasion by great conquerors, such as Alexander the Great and Tamerlane. In the course of ten millennia of habitation, the denizens of the area have reflected in their art - from the vigorous paintings of Catalhoyuk and the confident lines of Seljuk architecture, to, more recently, the impressive modern form of Ataturk's mausoleum - the dramatic contours of the surrounding landscape.  

CAPPADOCIA

Nevsehir, a provincial capital, is the gateway to Cappadocia . In the town itself the hilltop Seljuk castle, perched on the highest point in the city, and the Kursunlu Mosque, built for the Grand Vizier Damat Ibrahim Pasha, are among the remaining historical buildings. The mosque forms part of a complex of buildings which includes a medrese, a hospice and a library. An ablution fountain in the courtyard still bears its original inscription. The Nevsehir Museum displays local artifacts.

Violent eruptions of the volcanoes Mt. Erciyes (3916 meters) and Mt. Hasan (3268 meters) three million years ago, covered the plateau surrounding Nevsehir with tufa, a soft stone comprised of lava, ash and mud. The wind and rain have eroded this brittle rock and created a spectacular surrealist landscape of rock cones, capped pinnacles and fretted ravines, in colors that range from warm reds and golds to cool greens and greys. Goreme, known in Roman times as Cappadocia , is one of those rare regions in the world where the works of man blend unobtrusively into the natural surroundings. Dwellings have been hewn from the rock as far back as 4,000 B.C. During Byzantine times, chapels and monasteries were hollowed out of the rock, their ochre-toned frescoes reflecting the hues of the surrounding landscape. Even today troglodyte dwellings in rock cones and village houses of volcanic tufa merge harmoniously into the landscape.

Urgup, a lively tourist center at the foot of a rock riddled with old dwellings, serves as an excellent base from which to tour the sights of Cappadocia . In Urgup itself you can still see how people once lived in homes cut into the rocks. If you wish to buy carpets and kilims, there is a wide selection available from the town's many carpet dealers. These characters are as colorful as their carpets, offering tea, coffee or a glass of wine to their customers and engaging in friendly conversation. If sightseeing and shopping haven't exhausted you, the disco welcomes you to another kind of entertainment. At the center of a successful wine- producing region, Urgup hosts an annual International Wine Festival in October.

Leaving Urgup and heading to the south, you reach the lovely isolated Pancarlik Valley where you can stop to see the 12th-century church with its splendid frescoes, and the Kepez church, which dates from the tenth century. Continuing on to the typical village of Mustafapasa (Sinasos), the traditional stone houses with carved and decorated facades evoke another age. Still travelling in a southerly direction, just past the village of Cemil, a footpath on the west side of the road leads to Keslik Valley where you will find a monastery complex and the Kara Kilise and Meyvali churches, both of which are decorated with frescoes. Back on the main road you come to the village of Taskinpasa where the 14th-century Karamanid Mosque and Mausoleum Complex, and the remains of a medrese portal on the edge of town, make for a pleasant diversion. The next village is Sahinefendi where the 12th-century Kirksehitler church, adorned with beautiful frescoes, stands at the end of a footpath 500 meters east of the village.

Soganli, 50 km south of Urgup, is a picturesque valley of innumerable chapels, churches, halls, houses and tombs. The frescoes, from the 8th to the 13th century, trace the development of Byzantine painting.

Four kilometers north of Urgup is the wonderful Devrent Valley , where the weather has eroded the stone into peaks, cones and obelisks called fairy chimneys.

Two kilometers to the west, in the Catalkaya Valley , the fairy chimneys have a peculiar mushroom-like shape, which has been adopted as a symbol of the town.

The Goreme Open-Air Museum, a monastic complex of rock churches and chapels covered with frescoes, is one of the best-known sites in central Turkey . Most of the chapels date from the 10th to the 13th century, the Byzantine and Seljuk periods, and many of them are built on an inscribed cross plan with a central cupola supported by four columns. In the narthexes of several churches are rock cut tombs. Among the most famous of the Goreme churches are the Elmali Church , the smallest and newest of the group; the Yilanli Church with fascinating frescoes of the damned in serpent coils; the Barbara Churches ; and the Carikli Church . A short way from the main group, the Tokali Kilise, or Buckle Church , has beautiful frescoes depicting scenes from the New Testament.

The town of Goreme is set right in the middle of a valley of cones and fairy chimneys. Some of the cafes, restaurants and guest-houses are carved into the rock. For shoppers, rugs and kilims are plentiful.

Continuing on the road out of Goreme, you enter one of the most beautiful valleys in the area. Rock formations seemingly out of a fantasy rise up before you at every turn and entice you to look longer and wonder at their creation. For those who climb the steps to the top of the Uchisar Fortress the whole region unfolds below. Rugs and kilims, and popular souvenirs can easily be purchased from the shops which line Uchisar 's narrow streets.

At Cavusin, on the road leading north out of Goreme, you will find a triple apse church and the monastery of St. John the Baptist. In the town are chapels and churches, and some of the rock houses are still inhabited. From Cavusin to Zelve, fairy chimneys line the road. Unfortunately, it is dangerous to visit the churches in the Zelve valley because erosion has undermined solid footing.

The charming town of Avanos , on the banks of the Kizilirmak River , displays attractive vernacular architecture and is known for its handicrafts. Every August the town hosts an Art and Tourism Festival where a creative and friendly atmosphere pervades. Pottery is the most popular handicraft and it is usually possible to try your hand at making a pot in one of the many studios. Rug weaving and knotting is also making a revival. Leaving Avanos in a southerly direction you come to an interesting Seljuk caravanserai.

On the Nevsehir - Urgup road you can't miss Ortahisar and its rock-carved fortress. The churches in the Balkan Valley are some of the oldest in the Goreme region. In the neighboring Hallac Valley , the Hallac Monastery displays decorations from the 10th and the 11th centuries. North of Ortahisar, the Kizilcukur Valley is breathtakingly beautiful, especially at sunset. In the valley is the 9th-century Uzumlu church.

The underground cities of Kaymakli, Mazi, Derinkuyu and Ozkonak were all used by the Christians of the seventh century, who were fleeing from persecution. They sheltered from the iconoclastic strife of Byzantium as well as other invasions in these safe and well-hidden metropolises. A complete and selfsufficient environment, these cities included rooms for grain storage, stables, sleeping chambers, kitchens and air shafts. Today--they are well-lit, and an essential and fascinating part of a Cappadocian tour.

A N K A R A

The seat of Turkey 's government in the strategic heart of central Anatolia , Ankara is the city selected by Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the republic's founder, to house the capital of the newly politically defined country. Though thoroughly modern in appearance Ankara 's history and that of the surrounding area dates back to the Bronze Age and the Hatti civilization. In the second millennium B.C. the Hittites followed as lords of the land and were succeeded in turn by the Phrygians, Lydians and Persians. In the third century B.C., the Galatians, a Celtic race, made Ankara their capital. It was then known as Ancyra , meaning 'anchor' (which is one of the oldest words in the language of the sea-loving Celts). The Romans and then the Byzantines held this strategic expanse of land until 1073 when the Seljuk Turks, commanded by Alpaslan, conquered it. Just over three centuries later in 1402, the city, then but a small outpost, passed into the hands of the Ottomans led by Beyazit I.

After the first World War, Ankara assumed a prominent position as the center of Ataturk's national resistance and the War of Independence that liber ated the Turkish homeland from the domination of foreign powers. On the 13th of October, 1923 , Ankara was declared the capital of the new Republic of Turkey .

Dominating the modern part of the city, much of it constructed since Ankara 's rise to prominence, is the imposing limestone Anitkabir, the mausoleum of Kemal Ataturk. Completed in 1953, this fusion of ancient and modern architectural concepts testifies to the power and grace of Turkish architecture. A museum at Anitkabir displays some of Ataturk's personal items and documents. His house in Cankaya, next to the Presidential Palace, is open on Sunday afternoons.

The oldest parts of the city surround the ancient hisar or citadel. Within the walls, the 12th century Alaeddin Mosque although much rebuilt by the Ottomans, still boasts fine Seljuk woodwork. Many interesting traditional Turkish houses have been restored in the area, and some have found new life as art galleries or attractive restaurants serving local dishes and wine. The beautiful Ankara castle restaurant offers excellent local and international cuisine and wine. It's well-known that Ankara was the cradle of "vine" (Hatti and Hittite) by 2000 B.C. Many vineyards around Ankara sponsor wine-tasting socials. Close to the gate, Hisar Kapisi, the beautifully restored bedestan (covered bazaar), houses the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations with its priceless collection of Paleolithic, Neolithic, Hatti, Hittite, Phrygian, Urartian and Roman artifacts, and the showpiece Lydian treasure. The museum is open every day except Monday. Out side the citadel the 13th century Arslanhane Mosque and the 14th century Ahi Elvan Mosque are worth visiting.

The legacy of Roman times - the third century A.D. public baths (built by the Roman Emperor Caracalla), the fourth century Julian Column and the second-century Temple of Augustus is located in an area below the citadel, near Ulus Meydani ( Nation Square ). The sole surviving "Political Testament of Augustus", a statement detailing the achievements of the Emperor Augustus, remains inscribed on the wall of his temple in Ankara . At one time every temple dedicated to him throughout the Roman Empire bore this document; this is the only complete copy in existence today. The Galatian king Pylamenes built the

temple as a tribute to Augustus in 10 A.D. and in the second century, it was re-constructed by the Romans on the ancient Ankara Acropolis. In the fifth century the Byzantines converted the temple into a church.

Excavations of a Roman theatre, pro-scene (stage), and scene (backstage), can be seen outside the citadel. Roman statues found here are exhibited in the Anatolian Civilizations Museum . The audience area is still under excavation.

Adjacent to the temple stands the 15th-century Had Bayram mosque and mausoleum. This complex is greatly venerated by Muslims as a holy shrine.

From Ulus Meydani, with its equestrian statue of Ataturk, continue down Ataturk Boulevard to the Ethnographical Museum which houses magnificent Seljuk doors of carved wood, and other artifacts of daily life. Nearby, the Sculpture and Painting Museum illustrates the history of the Turkish fine arts. The largest mosque in Ankara graces the Kocatepe quarter. Kocatepe Mosque was built between 1976 and 1987, and is in the Ottoman architectural style.

Ankara has an active artistic and cultural life with world class performances of ballet, modern dance, jazz, theater, opera and folk dancing. The city is especially well known for its Philharmonic Orchestra which attracts a loyal following. Ankara hosts two international festivals in April: "The Arts and Music Festival", and the world-famous "April 23rd International Children's Festival".

Visitors to the city usually like to browse through the old shops in Cikrikcilar Yokusu near Ulus. On the street of coppersmiths, Bakircilar Carsisi, you can find many interesting old and new items, not only of copper but jewelry, carpets, costumes, antiquities and embroidery. A walk up the hill to the Cit adel Gate takes you past many interesting stalls and vendors selling spices, dried fruits, nuts and all manner of produce. Modern shopping areas are mostly found in Kizilay, on Tunali Hilmi Avenue and in the Atakule Tower in Cankaya. The top of Atakule, at 125 meters, offers a magnificent view over the whole city. Its excellent revolving restaurant allows you to enjoy the complete view in a leisurely fashion. In the new Karum shopping mall, in Kavaklidere, some of Turkey 's most chic clothing stores tempt the passer-by.

WEST OF ANKARA

The most important Phrygian sites in Anatolia are to be found in the provinces of Ankara , Eskisehir and Afyon. Yassihoyuk (Gordion) was the capital of Phrygia and the place were Alexander the Great cut the Gordion Knot to gain the key to Asia . The tumulus of King Midas, who turned whatever he touched to gold, can be visited here. Nearby, the remains of the ancient city Gordion, still under excavation, and a small museum are worth a quick tour.

Off the same Ankara-Eskisehir road is Ballihisar (Pessinus), an important Phrygian religious cult center. The most important remains are those of a temple to Cybele, the mother goddess whose worship was at the heart of the Phrygian culture. The small open air museum has some interesting sculptures and tombstones.

At Midas City two enormous facades cut into a rocky promontory once held cult statues for the worship of Cybele in their niches. Throughout the area rock tombs - cave-like openings pierce the sand colored stone. A recently discovered underground passage leads from the site to the valley below.

Aslantas and Aslankaya were both centers of cult worship in Phrygian times. The former, 34 km north of Afyon, has two monumental lion reliefs; the latter, 52 km from Afyon, comprises a temple and a lion relief. Other Phrygian monuments can be explored at Doganlikale, Kumbet and Deveboynu.

Eskisehir was founded in the first millennium B.C. on the banks of the Porsuk River by the Phrygians. Significant architectural monuments include the 13th-century Alaeddin Mosque and the 16th-century Kursunlu Complex. All four of the city's museums are worth visiting: the Archaeological Museum has Phrygian objects and sculptures from the area; the Meerscharum Pipe Museum displays pipes and other objects made of meerschaum; the Yesil Efendi Ottoman House Museum, a fine example of 19th century domestic architecture, houses a collection of local ethnographical items and fireplaces for curing meerschaum; and the Ataturk Culture Museum has a photographic exhibition of Ataturk's life, a number of personal effects and a display of items made of meerschaum The world's best meerschaum, a soft white stone, comes from mines in the area surrounding Eskisehir. Pipes and other objects can be purchased in the town's souvenir shops. A spring-fed lake, Sakaryabasi, surrounded by beautiful parkland, draws many visitors who want to enjoy the fresh air and eat in one of the fresh-fish restaurants.

Sivrihisar's charm derives from its many typical Ottoman houses which imbue the town with a faded elegance. The 13thcentury Ulu Mosque, formerly a caravanserai, and the Alemsah Mausoleum are very interesting and worth a visit. Connoisseurs of carpets will know that kilims from Sivrihisar are particularly prized.

On the hillside above Seyyit Battal Gazi stands the imposing 13th- century mosque and tomb complex built in memory of the warrior of Islam, Seyyit Battal.

Yunus Emre Koyu (Sarikoy) is the burial place of Yunus Emre, the great 13th-century poet. His poetry lives today, its message of love and humanity as relevant as ever. Commemorative celebrations are held in the town every May. In addition to his grave, visitors can see a small museum dedicated to his life and works.

NORTH OF ANKARA

In the third century B.C., the Galatian settlement in Cankiri was called Gangrea, a name which evolved into Kangri. The ruins of an 11th century fortress overlook the city. In town the Ulu Mosque, built by ' Turkey 's greatest architect, Sinan, in the 16th century, recalls the years of Ottoman culture. Tag Mescit, a medieval hospital built in 1235, lies just outside the city. North of Cankiri is the beautiful Ilgaz National Park and Ski Center .

NORTHEAST AND EAST OF ANKARA

Kirikkale is a rapidly expanding industrial center on the major highway that leads east out of Ankara and to the Black Sea . The Kizilirmak River , known in ancient times as Halys, passes by Kirikkale. Nearby the river, you can spend a pleasant afternoon relaxing in one of the good restaurants, surrounded by the pastoral landscape, and visit the restful Celal Bayar Park . In Kirikkale, the Gun Museum displays the different types of guns that are made in Kirikkale's gun factories.

After the highway divides, the eastern fork leads to Yozgat, 217 km from Ankara . Founded in the 18th century by the Ottomans, the city has two important buildings from this period - the Capanoglu Mosque and the adjoining Suleyman Bey Mosque. The 19th-century Nizamoglu Mansion , an attractive example of Turkish domestic architecture, now houses ethnographical exhibits. Camlik National Park is a few kilometers south of the city.

All the major early Hittite sites lie in the province of Corum in Bogazkale National Park , between Yozgat and the city of Corum . Impressive double walls, in which are set the Royal Gate, the Lion Gate and the Yer Kapi (an underground tunnel), ring the Hittite city of Hattusas , known today as Bogazkale. This city, the Hittite religious center, was known as the City of Temples because over 70 temples stood there. The largest ruins are those of the great temple of the storm god Tesup. The Acropolis contained government buildings, the Imperial Palace and the archives of the Hittite Empire. In 1180 B.C. the Phrygians dev astated the city. After thorough excavations at the site, the city walls are now being extensively restored

Yazilikaya, an open-air rock pantheon dating from the 13th century B.C., contains fine reliefs of all the Hittite gods and goddesses.

Alacahoyuk, north of Bogazkale on the road to Corum, was the center of the flourishing Hattian culture during the Bronze Age. The magnificent Hattian gold and bronze objects in the Museum of Anatolian Civilization in Ankara were found in the Royal Tombs of this period. All the standing remains at Alacahoyuk, however, such as the Sphinx Gate, date from the Hittite period.

Corum, an important city on the road from central Anatolia to the Black Sea , is known to grow the finest chickpeas in Turkey . Significant historical buildings include the 13th-century Ulu Mosque and the 19th- century clock tower.

The small town of Merzifon , between Corum and Amasya, has several Ottoman monuments including the Celebi Sultan Mehmet Medrese (theological college) and the Kara Mustafa Pasa Mosque.

Set in a narrow gorge of the Yesilirmak (Iris) River, Amasya dates from the third century B.C. The ruins of the citadel - inside of which an Ottoman Palace and a secret underground passageway remain - rise from the craggy rock. Hewn into rock above the city impressive Roman rock tombs are lit at night creating a spectacular image. The beauty of Amasya's natural surroundings and its splendid architectural legacy have combined to endow the city with the accolade of one of the most beautiful cities in Turkey . Among the sights of interest to visitors, the 13th-century Seljuk Burmali Minare Mosque, the Torumtay Tomb and Gok Medrese, the 14th-century Ilhanid Hospital with lovely reliefs around its portal, the 15th-century Beyazlt Mosque complex and the unusual octagonal Kapi Aga Medrese should not be missed.

Traditional wooden Turkish mansions, or konaks, on the north bank of the Yesilirmak River in the Hatuniye quarter (Yali boyu), have been restored to their former splendor, and some of these have been turned into guest-houses. The restored 19thcentury Hazeranlar Konagi, one of the loveliest, now houses an art gallery on the first floor and the Ethnographical Museum on the second. The Archaeological Museum has an interesting collection of regional artifacts including the mummies of the Mongol Ilhanid rulers of Amasya. Cafes, restaurants, tea gardens and parks line the riverside and provide tranquil spots from which to enjoy the city's romantic atmosphere. From the top of Cakallar Hill you have a beautiful view of the city. Just 50 km northeast of Amasya amid magnificent mountain scenery, Borabay Lake is a popular place for day trips. Amasya is surrounded by orchards which produce some of the world's most delicious apples

Tokat, also on the Yesilirmak river, has many Seljuk and Ottoman monuments which lend a picturesque yet solemn aesthetic to the cityscape. Among the main historical buildings are the ruins of a 28 towered castle, the 11th-century Garipler Mosque and a Seljuk bridge. The 13th-century Pervane Bey Darussifasi (Gok Medrese), one of Tokat's finest buildings, is now the Archaeological Museum . A regional commercial center, Tokat has retained many of its hans, or commercial warehouses, including the Tashan, Suluhan, Yagcioglu Hani and Gazi Emir (Yazmacilar) Hani. A walk down Sulu Sokak in the city center, a street lined with hans, mausoleums, bazaars and baths, provides an excellent overview of Tokat's architecture. In the Gazi Emir (Yazmacilar) Hani you can find many examples of the blockprinted cloth, a 300-year-old tradition for which Tokat is famous.

A tradition of carved and painted wood decoration and painted murals give Tokat's konaks a particular elegance. The 19th century Madimagin Celalin Konak and the Latifoglu Konak have been restored to their former splendor and give a picture of wealthy life in rural Turkey 100 years ago.

Sixty-nine kilometers northeast of Tokat, Niksar, once a capital of the Danismend Emirs, has a wellpreserved citadel and early Turkish monuments, including the Coregi Buyuk Mosque which has a very fine 12th- century carved stone portal. It was in Zile, south of Amasya and west of Tokat that Julius Caesar, after a particularly speedy battle, quaffed a cup of Tokat's fine local wine, and declared his famous "Veni, vidi, vici". Beneath the citadel which guards the city stands the restored Ulu Mosque of 1269.

Sivas , an important commercial center stood, during the Middle Ages, at the junction of the caravan routes to Persia and Baghdad . Between 1142 and 1171, it was the capital of the Danismend Emirs and a vitally important urban center during Seljuk rule. The remaining architectural monuments reflect Sivas 's former prominent position. The Ulu Mosque dates from the Danismend Emirate, but the Seljuk buildings: the 13th- century Izzeddin Keykavus Sifahanesi - a hospital and a medical school, the beautifully decorated Gok Medrese, the twin minarets of the Cifte Minare Medrese as well as the Buruciye Medrese all testify to the exciting aesthetic of the Seljuk period.

In 1919, the decision to liberate Turkey from the occupying foreign powers was made by the National Congress which had convened in Sivas . Today, the 19th-century building where the congress was held has been restored as the Ataturk and Congress Museum , with a display about the War of Independence as well as an ethnographical exhibit. In town there are excellent Sivas carpets for sale; the city has long had a reputation for fine weaving.

Kangal, 68 km south of Sivas , is the home of Turkey 's most famous breed of dog - the Kangal (''dog of the Galatians", with whom they came in the 3rd cent. B.C). Used as sheep dogs, these golden-haired animals have also proven themselves in police and security work. Twelve kilometers northeast of Kangal is the famous spa, Balikli Kaplica. The 36-degree Celsius waters contain bicarbonate, calcium, and magnesium, and spring from the earth accompanied by scores of tiny fish that are said to aid in the cure of skin complaints.

Once a Byzantine outpost, Divrigi became the capital of the Turkish Mengucek Emirs in the 12th and 13th centuries. Although very much off the beaten track,, visitors come to Divrigi to see the Ulu Mosque and Medrese of 1229. Seljuk stonework reached its most exuberant expression in the animal and vegetal carvings of the portals. UNESCO declared this site one of the world's most important cultural heritages.

SOUTHEAST OF ANKARA

Founded in ancient times Kirsehir became, in the Middle Ages, the center of the Ahi Brotherhood, a Moslem sect whose moral and social ideals played an important role in the spiritual and political life of Anatolian towns. Among Kirsehir's many fine Seljuk buildings are the Cacabey Mosque of 1272 (a former astrological observatory), the Alaeddin Mosque of 1230, and the Ahi Evran Mosque, beside which is the tomb of the founder of the Ahi sect. Out of town, on the road toward Kayseri , is the attractive Asik Pasa Mausoleum which was built during the period of Mongol rule, in 1333.

Within the surroundings of Kaman, in the province of Kirsehir , is the important archaeological centre of Kalehoyuk, still being excavated. Near Kalehoyuk in a center of Hatti and Hittite settlements, is located one of the largest parks in Turkey - Mikasonmiya Ant Bahcesi, which contains 16,500 trees of 33 different species.

The road to Nevsehir and Cappadocia passes through Hacibektas, the town where Had Bektas Veli settled and established his Bektas Sufi order in the 14th century. The dervishes who followed the sect's tenets of love and humanism were housed in the monastery which includes a mausoleum and mosque. The complex is now a museum open to the public. Honey and rose-coloured onyx, plentiful in the region, was used by the disciples of this order and has come to be called Hacibektas stone. In town there are many exquisite onyx souvenirs for sale. It is also worth stopping to wander through the interesting Archaeological and Ethnographical Museum .

WEST OF CAPPADOCIA

West of Cappadocia, over the mountains, lies Kayseri , known as Caesarea in Roman times. The city spreads out at the foot of the extinct volcano Mt. Erciyes (3916 meters). In the winter months the ski center has excellent runs for downhill skiiers, and several pleasant hotels cater particularly to the skiers. Close to the Byzantine fortress, the 13th- century Huant Hatun Mosque and Medrese, with the Mahperi Hatun Mausoleum, comprise the first Seljuk complex, the Huant Hatun Complex, in Anatolia . The Medrese is now an Ethnographical Museum . South of the complex, stands the beautifully decorated Doner Kumbet of 1276, a Seljuk mausoleum of classic simplicity. A major Seljuk city, Kayseri was an important center of learning and consequently, there are many medreses among the remaining historical buildings. Those interested in the Seljuk architectural form should see the Cifte (Giyasiye and Sifahiye) Medrese, the first Seljuk school of anatomy, and one of which today is the Gevher Nesibe Medical History Museum . And nearby is the lovely Sahabiye Medrese. Near the city's bedestan is the restored-12th century Ulu Mosque. The Had Kilic Mosque, north of the Cifte Medrese, dates from 1249.

South of Kayseri, in Develi, stand three more important Seljuk buildings: the Ulu Mosque, the Seyid-i Serif Tomb and the Develi Tomb. Nearby, the Sultan Marshes, the habitat of many species of bird, are of interest both to ornithologists and nature lovers.

North of Kayseri, Kultepe, known in ancient times as Kanesh or Karum was one of the earliest Hittite commercial cities. Dating from 2000 B.C., Kultepe was also one of the world's first cities of free trade. Today, however, only the foundations remain. Many of the finds can be examined in the Kayseri Archaeological Museum .

On the same road is Sultanhan, a caravanserai built by the Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat in the early 13th century and a favorite stop for tourists.

Kapuzbasi Waterfall is 76 km south from Kayseri . In this beautiful natural site, seven different springs on the mountain-face fall from heights ranging between 30 and 70 metres.

Kayseri is one of the most important carpet and kilim production centres in Anatolia . Bunyan is the most famous carpet-production centre and Yahyali is the most famous kilim-production centre. Rugs woven in finely knotted floral patterns continue a centuries-old tradition. Local production can be purchased in any of the Kayseri carpet shops.

Nigde, the Nahita of Hittite times, lies in a valley flanked by volcanic peaks and commands the ancient trade route from Anatolia to the Mediterranean . Nigde's castle owes its present form to the Seljuks, and the elegant Alaeddin Mosque dates from the same period. From the 14th century era of Mongol rule are the Sungur Bey Mosque and the Hudavend Hatun Mausoleum, an excellent example of the Anatolian tower tomb. The 15th century Ak Medrese now houses the Archaeological Museum .

Ten kilometers out of town is Eskigumus, a Byzantine monastery and church with massive columns and frescoes. These frescoes, which date from the 10th and the 11th centuries, are among the best preserved in the region.

Bor, south of Nigde, was once a Hittite settlement. The town's historical buildings include the Seljuk Alaeddin Mosque and the Ottoman bedestan. Farther on, in the same direction, Kemerhisar is the site of the important Roman city of Tyana . A few more kilometers brings you to some Hittite ruins and a Roman aqueduct.

Most of the historical buildings in Aksaray, west of Nigde and south of Cappadocia , such as the Ulu Mosque, date from the 14th century. The Kizil Minaret is noted for its attractive decorative brickwork. Two of the most famous caravanserais from the Seljuk period remain in the environs. Just 40 km west of the city is the well preserved Sultanhan Caravanserai built by the Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat, and 15 km towards Nevsehir is the Agzikarahan Caravansarai.

The Melendiz River , at Ihlara Valley , has eroded the banks into an impressive canyon. Byzantine rock chapels covered with frescoes pierce the canyon walls. Some of the best known are the Agacalti (Daniel ) Church, the Yılanlı (Apocalypse) Church and the Sumbullu (Hyacinth) Church.

Guzelyurt is another valley with dwellings dating from prehistoric times. You can see the beautiful silhouette of Mt. Hasan rising like a crown above the town. The valley's underground cities, buildings carved into the rock, interesting vernacular architecture, churches, chapels and mosques embody all of the characteristics of Cappadocia and give visitors a sense of historical continuity. A popular tourist destination, Guzelyurt's hospitable residents, extensive accommodation and restaurants ensure a pleasant stay. The resting-area of Evren by the Hirfanli Lake offers fish restaurants, beach and swimming.

SOUTH OF ANKARA

Konya ,one of Turkey 's oldest continuously inhabited cities was known as Iconium in Roman times. The capital of the Seljuk Turks from the 12th to the 13th centuries, it ranks as one of the great cultural centers of Turkey . During that period of cultural, political and religious growth, the mystic Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi founded a Sufi Order known in the West as the Whirling Dervishes. The striking green tiled mausoleum of Mevlana is Konya 's most famous building. Attached to the mausoleum, the former dervish seminary serves now as a museum housing manuscripts of Mevlana's works and various artifacts related to the mysticism of the sect. Every year, in the first half of December, this still-active religious order holds a ceremony commemorating the Whirling Dervishes. The controlled, almost trance-like turning or sema of the white-robed men creates a mystical experience for the viewer.

Alaeddin Mosque, built on the site of the ancient Konya citadel in 1220, during the reign of the great Seljuk sultan Alaeddin Keykubat, commands Konya 's skyline. To one side of the mosque are the remains of the Seljuk Imperial Palace . The Karatay Medrese, now a museum, displays bold and striking Seljuk ceramics. On the other side of the mosque, the Ince Minareli Medrese of 1258 is remarkable for its marvellous baroque Seljuk portal. Other Seljuk works include the Sircali Medrese and the Sahip Ata Complex. Visitors find Konya 's Archaeological Museum of exceptional interest. The collection of the Koyunoglu Museum is a varied one; among its displays one is devoted to natural history and another to old kilims. Within the museum complex, the restored Izzettin Koyunoglu house illustrates the way of life of a prosperous Konya family.

Sille, 10 km north of Konya , has the Byzantine Aya Eleni church and several rock chapels with frescoes. Aksehir, to the northwest, is known throughout Turkey as the birthplace of the 13th-century humorist Nasrettin Hoca, whose mausoleum stands in the town. The 13th-century Ulu Mosque and the Altinkale Mescidi are other monuments worth seeing; the Sahip Ata Mausoleum has been converted into the town's museum.

On the way south to Beysehir stop at Eflatun Pinar next to the lake to see this unusual Hittite monumental fountain. Several interesting Seljuk buildings are scattered around lovely Beysehir, on the shores of Turkey 's third largest lake, Beysehir Lake . Among the monuments are the Esrefoglu Mosque and Medrese, and the Kubad-Abad Summer Palace across the lake. Another medieval palace stands on Kizkalesi Island , opposite the Kubad-Abad palace. Had Akif Island also offers relaxation and recreation to visitors.

Catalhoyuk, 45 km south of Konya , is a fascinating Neolithic site dating from the eight millennium B.C., which makes it one of the world's oldest towns. Archaeologists have determined that holes in the roofs of the mud houses were the entrance doors. Ankara 's Museum of Anatolian Civilizations houses the famous temple (re-constructed), along with mother-goddess figures and Neolithic frescoes from the original site.

Surrounding Karapinar, 96 km east of Konya , are numerous crater lakes; the most famous is the lovely Meke Crater Lake, 7 km southeast of Karapinar. On the north side of the road to Eregli, 8 km from Karapinar, lies Act Crater Lake.

At Ivriz, a Hittite site 168 km east of Konya , you can see one of Turkey 's finest neo-Hittite reliefs of a king and fertility god. Karaman, once the capital of the Karamanid Emirate, was the first Turkish state to use Turkish instead of Persian as its official language. Fittingly, Yunus Emre, the first great poet to write in Turkish, lived here in the 13th century. The surrounding fortresses date from Seljuk times, although the town's most significant buildings, the Araboglu, Yunus Emre and Aktekke Mosques and the Hatuniye Medrese, were all built during the Karamanid reign.

Derbe, 30 km north of Karaman, at the foot of the extinct volcano Mt. Karadag (2288 m), was an important early Christian settlement; St. Paul came here to preach.

Visitors can still see the remains of churches and chapels at Madensehir, 45 km from Karaman, on the northern slope of Mt. Karadag . Church remains and Hittite inscriptions have been discovered on the top of the mountain.

Near Taskale, 48 km east of Karaman, on the rocky northern slope of Yesildere Valley , are the remains of the fascinating historical city of Manazan . Built during Byzantine times, the entire city of narrow lanes, houses, squares, storage facilities, chapels and cemeteries (occupying an area approximately three kilometers long and five stories high) was carved into the rocky hillside of the valley. Today, parts of the city are still used for wheat storage.

South of Karaman up a steep narrow road are the remains of a beautiful Byzantine monastery, Alahan. Much still stands, and there is some fine stone carving to admire. This magnificent location offers a breathtaking view.