THE EASTERN ANATOLIA

The Toros (Taurus) Mountains which parallel Turkey's southern border and the Black Sea Mountains in the north join together to form a mighty mountain range which defines the country's eastern border. The tremendous diversity of the eastern and southeastern lands surprises travelers: he red ochre plateau of Erzurum; the forests, waterfalls, and green pastures of Kars and Agri: the permanent snow-cap on biblical Mount Agri (Ararat); the immense Lake Van with its deep blue waters. Dwellings and modes of life also vary greatly in this large region. Small, earth-roofed houses; build close to the ground typify houses around Kars ; Despite a generally austere life, the people of the area are generous and hospitable.

The region's long and turbulent history has left monuments to its various civilizations : Byzantine monasteries and churches, Seljuk mausoleums and caravanserais, elegant Ottoman mosques and hilltop citadels. To the inveterate traveller and lover of adventure, this region of Turkey fascinates, astonishes and informs.

FROM ERZİNCAN TO DOĞUBEYAZIT

The national highway, the great trans-Anatolian axis road, is the most direct route between Ankara and the Iranian border, and passes through Sivas , Erzincan, Erzurum , Agri and Dogubayazit. Erzincan, the principal city of its province, lies 688 km east of Ankara on a fertile plain. The highly decorated and hand-fashioned copper vessels and wares of Erzincan maintain a long tradition of the area's fame in metalwork. Akbulut, a ski slope 53 km to the west, provides facilities for winter sports enthusiasts.

Many of the magnificent bronze objects in Ankara 's Museum of Anatolian Civilizations were found nearby at the Urartian site of Altintepe, east of Erzincan. At Tercan, the round 12th century mausoleum of Mama Hatun with its beautifully carved stone portal is worth a detour off the main road. Girvelik, in the same southeasterly direction, provides ideal picnic spots where you can eat a packed lunch and relax to the sound of water tumbling over rocks.

Erzurum , the largest city in eastern Anatolia , sprawls on a high plateau at an altitude of 1950 meters. As you enter the city the large Aziziye monument commemorating the Turkish-Russian war will catch your eye.

Although the collection in the archaeological museum reveals much of the city's history and ancient origins, it is Erzurum 's architecture which is in fact the city's best museum. The city walls and fortress remind one of the period of Byzantine rule. Particularly important are the remaining Seljuk buildings, brilliant examples of a fascinating aesthetic. The Ulu Mosque, built in 1179, has an unusual form with seven wide naves. The Cifte Minareli Medrese, or theological college, built by the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin Keykubat in 1253, astonishes with the elaborate stone carvings on its portal and its majestic double minarets. Behind the Cifte Minareli Medrese, stands the Uc Kumbetler, a group of three tombs, the most notable of which is that of Emir Saltuk. The 13th century Hatuniye Turbesi, or mausoleum,. was built for Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat's daughter. The beautiful portal and richly tiled minaret of the 13th century Yakutiye Medrese reveals another facet of Seljuk architecture. You can also see Ottoman buildings in Erzurum ; the great architect Sinan left his mark on the city with the Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque.

While wandering around the city, notice the local blade stone which is used in jewelry. The shops on the upper floor of the Tashan (Rustem Pasa Caravanserai) offer the best selection of items.

A road through splendid mountain scenery leads to the winter sports resort of Palandoken, only 6 km from Erzurum . This center has the longest ski run and best snow quality in Turkey , and is a favorite haunt of expert skiers. The glassy Tortum Lake , 120 km from Erzurum towards Artvin and the Black Sea , may be the most tranquil sight in all of Turkey . Be sure to see the Tortum Waterfalls at the north end of the lake plunging from a height of 47 meters.

Kars , standing at an altitude of 1750 meters, has played an important role in Turkish history and was at the center of the Turkish-Russian War. The Russian legacy can still be seen in much of the town's architecture. The lower city unfolds at the foot of an impressive Seljuk fortress of the 12th century. Nearby the Havariler Museum (the 10th century Church of the Apostles) reveals a curious mixture of architectural influences. Bas-reliefs representing the twelve apostles, in rather stiff and awkward poses, ring the exterior drum of the dome. The Archaeological Museum houses beautiful wood carvings, an excellent collection of coins found in the surrounding region as well as many ethnographic items relating to eastern Turkey . Kars is particularly known for it distinctive kilims and carpets, and retains a strong heritage of folk dancing. Visitors always seem to enjoy this traditional entertainment. On the mountain pastures, villagers produce excellent Kasar cheese and delicious honey. Forty-two kilometers east of the city on the ancient Silk Route , the medieval city of Ani (Ocakli) lies mostly in ruins. Impressive fortified walls still encircle the ruins of numerous churches, mosques and caravanserais. Sarikamis (53 km southwest of Kars ) is a ski center with resort hotels set in a scenic pine forest. The Kur river divides Ardahan and separates the ancient part on one side and the new city on the other. A 16th century castle built by Sultan Selim the Grim, one of the most stately citadels in Turkey with 14 towers and a span of 745 meters, stands in the old part of the city.

Cildir takes its name from the nearby lake which lies at an altitude of 1965 meters. The scenic area around the lake provides a habitat for a fascinating variety of birds. In the lake, the man-made Akcakale Island was reputedly constructed with the labor of thousands; a temple with Urartian inscriptions remains. Seytan (Devil's) Castle is near Cildir.

The city of Igdir stands on a large, fertile plain on which fruit and, unusually for this geographical region, cotton grow. The Bible relates that when the flood waters receded, Noah and his family descended from Mount Agri (Ararat) toward the fertile Igdir plain. From here their progeny settled to the south and west along the Firat ( Euphrates ) and Dicle ( Tigris ) rivers, establishing the second generation of mankind. From this plain, you have the best view of Mount Agri. Monuments to visit near the city include Urartian rock monuments, a 13th century Seljuk caravanserai and the Karakale (Black Castle). In Karakoyun village, on the road between Igdir and Aralik you should stop at the impressive 15th century cemeteries with Karakoyun (ram and ewe) monumental tombstones.

Ago, a provincial capital on a 1650 meter high plateau, takes its name from the mountain which looms over it . The pleasant Balik (Fish) Lake to the northeast, not surprisingly, has plenty of fish restaurants serving local delicacies. Thermal springs bubble up all over the area. For those who want a hardy outdoor event, visit the Bubi Dagi Ski Center , 20 km southwest of Agri, for a few days of snow sport. Do not miss the spectacular site of the Ishak Pasa Palace only 6 km from Dogubayazit. Ishak Pasa, Ottoman governor of the province, constructed the palace in the 17th century in a mixture of architectural styles. Nearby you can see a bas-relief of an Urartian king, and a rock tomb from the ninth century B.C.

Near Dogubayazit , Turkey 's most scenic natural monument, Mount Agri rises to a height of 5137 meters. To see the place where it is thought that Noah's Ark came aground go to Uzengili village, 25 km east of Dogubeyazit. Be sure to try the local dessert, asure (Noah's Pudding), believed to have first been made by Noah's wife from the last bits of food in the ark.

FROM MALATYA TO HAKKARİ

The most direct route to this region is the Central Anatolian Highway that passes through Kayseri , Malatya , Elazig, BingoI, Mus, Van and on to Iran via Hakkari.

Malatya is a busy city situated on a fertile plain at the foot of the Anti-Taurus Mountains . The archaeological museum houses new finds from the Lower Firat region, dating from the Neolithic and Chalcolithic ages. Next to the city museum, you can shop in the bazaar where an entire passageway of shops is given over to copper ware. In Malatya , the apricot growing center of Turkey , it is possible as well as gorging on the fresh and dried fruit to sample many delicious apricot confections. The two small towns which predate the establishment of present day Malatya are easy expeditions. Aslantepe, seven km away, was the capital of a Hittite state in the first millennium B.C., and Battalgazi, 9 km away, was once the ancient city of Melitene . At the latter stand the ruins of a Byzantine enclosure, and in the center of town the 13th century Ulu Mosque is an excellent example of Seljuk architecture. Elazig, founded in the 19th century, lies on a plain in the shadow of a mountain crowned with the ancient city of Harput 's citadel. The dastruction of several earthquakes and the relatively recent construction of Elazig has meant that Harput's population has mostly deserted it for the-modern city. Several Seljuk mosques remain, however, which are worth visiting. The Keban and Karakaya Dams on the Firat river have created huge artificial lakes dramatically altering the surrounding environment. Twenty-five kilometers south of Elazig, the lovely and tranquil Hater Lake invites relaxation.

High mountains encircle Tunceli, 133 km north of Elazig on the Elazig-Erzurum road, On the way stop off to see the fortress of Pertek, built in the Middle Ages and still in good condition today. In the Menzur Valley National Park near Ovacik, 60 km northwest of Tunceli, you can fish in rushing trout-filled streams while enjoying the amazing scenery.

Bingol means "a thousand lakes" a name given to the town, no doubt because of the many glacier lakes in the surrounding mountains. In the city itself stand the remains of a medieval fortress. Bingol Ski Center is 20 km to the west.

Mus, a little out of the way for most tourist's routes, was founded in the sixth century. Many of the city's monuments including the remains of a citadel and the Aslanhane Caravanserai are in poor condition. The Seljuk mosques of Alaeddin Pasa and Had Seref, however, are certainly worth a detour.

The lively city of Bitlis , an important center of tobacco production, stands in the middle of a green oasis. The city's architecture uses the local dark stone, and the masonry monuments include the Serefhan Medrese, the 12th century Ulu Mosque, the Seljuk Gokmeydani Mosque and the Ottoman Serefiye Mosque. Bitlis Ski Center is close to the town's center. From Tatvan, on the western shore of Lake Van , you can take a passenger and train ferry across the water to Van. Nemrut Dagi ( Mount Nemrut ) makes a challenging climb. In the center of it, a deep crater lake bubbles with volcanic hot springs . The ruins of Ahlat, 44 km north of Tatvan on the west shore of Lake Van , once an important city of Turkish art and culture, are scattered today among more recent constructions. In the 12th century this city was the capital of the Turkish state that ruled the Van Basin. Several mausoleums, notably the Ulu Kumbet, the Bayindir Kumbet, the Hasan Pasa Kumbet and the Cifte Kumbets offer a comprehensive overview of Seljuk funerary architecture and decoration. In the Seljuk cemetery are beautifully inscribed monumental tombstones from the 12th century. The Turkish Art Museum houses a collection of ceramics, ancient coins and jewelry. Modern Ahlat provides lakeside tourist accommodation, beach facilities and restaurants.

As you drive around the lake you come to Adilcevaz, where the Ulu Mosque, built of the region's dark volcanic stone, stands on the lake shore. Ten kilometers west of Adilcevaz is Kef Castle, and nearby, the Urartian temple of Haldi dates to the ninth century B.C. Artifacts from this site can been seen in the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara. The Adilcevaz High School garden displays some of the column bases.

Van, the ancient Urartian capital of Tuspa, tempts visitors to its location on the eastern shore of the lake. This remote but important city is set in a verdant oasis at the foot of a rocky peak. An imposing 9th century B.C. citadel overlooks the new and old parts of town. Steps carved in the rock lead to the Urartian fortress; half way up inscriptions in cuneiform pay homage to Xerxes. Within the fortress are several Urartian royal rock tombs. In the old city, the Ulu Mosque, Husrev Pasa Mosque, Kaya Celebi Mosque and the Ikiz Kumbets reflect Seljuk and Ottoman architectural styles. Van's interesting Archaeological Museum is in the new city , inland from the uninhabited old district. Still very much part of a traditional lifestyle, the women of Van produce dark and beautiful kilims woven in blue, red and white patterns. The exotic Van cat, a protected animal, has thick white fur and one blue and one green eye. At Van Iskelesi (Van Harbor), friendly tea gardens and restaurants invite you for a break. Edremit, a holiday resort center 14 km to the southwest, has good beaches, swimming and camping. In the same direction is Gevas where you can visit a Seljuk cemetery with many decorated headstones and the lovely Halime Hatun Mausoleum.

Lake Van , the largest lake in Turkey and at an altitude of 1720 meters, is ringed by beautiful mountains: Mount Suphan (4058 meters) on the northwest side and the Ihtiyar Sahap Mountains to the south. You can travel the circumference of the entire lake visiting several ancient Urartian sites as well as others that represent the legacy of the various peoples who have inhabited the area.

Some of the islands in Lake Van have monasteries and churches built on them; no doubt the remote location offered seclusion to the resident religious communities. Forty-one kilometers southwest of Van, Akdamar Island (a half hour sail from shore) is the most important of these. On the island stands the tenth century Church of the Holy Cross, now designated a museum, whose stone outer walls are richly carved with Old Testament scenes and figures. After sightseeing, swimmers and picnickers enjoy themselves around the island's almond groves. If you have time, visit Carpanak Island to enjoy its landscape, and to wander around the 12th century church which has now been converted into a museum. Cavustepe, 35 km from Van on the Hakkari road, is an important Urartian citadel. Excavated in 1970, today you can see temples, a palace, a sacrificial altar and inscriptions. On the pastoral, winding road heading to Hakkari, the Zernek Dam Lake offers itself as a rest spot on the way to Hosap where a 17th century fairy-tale castle rises above a small hill. Although the exterior walls, crenellations and turrets are well preserved, the inside is badly damaged. Among the interesting geographical features around Lake Van, the Muradiye Waterfalls, 88 km north of Van, with a peaceful tea garden and good restaurants, and Gahnispi - Beyaz Cesme Falls, 60 km south of Van, are worth visiting.

The road to remote Hakkari takes you through some of Turkey 's most magnificent scenery, the Cilo-Sat Mountains and the Zap Valley . A medieval fortress dominates the city which stands at an altitude of 1700 meters.