MARMARA REGION

The Marmara Region is essentially the gate between Europe and Asia. A focal passage point since antiquity it has seen the invasion of countless armies and the establishment successive civilizations. Istanbul embraces two continents with one arm reaching out to Asia and the other to Europe. Through the city's heart, the Bosporus, course the waters of the Black Sea, the Sea of Marmara and the Golden Horn. The former capital of three successive empires, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman, Istanbul today honors and preserves the legacy of its past while looking forward to a modern future. It is Istanbul's endless variety that fascinates its visitors. The museums, churches, palaces, grand mosques, bazaars and sights of natural beauty seem innumerable.

İSTANBUL

Istanbul embraces two continents, one arm reaching out to Asia , the other to Europe . In the city's heart, the Bosphorus strait, course the waters of the Black Sea , the Sea of Marmara and the Golden Horn . The former capital of three successive empires- Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman- today Istanbul honors and preserves the legacy of its past while looking forward to its modern future.

Indeed it is Istanbul 's variety that fascinates its visitors. The museums, churches, palaces, great mosques, bazaars and sights of natural beauty seem inexhaustible. As you recline on the shores of the Bosphorus at sunset contemplating the red evening light reflected in the windows on the opposite shore you understand, suddenly and profoundly, why so many centuries ago settlers chose to build on this remarkable site. At times such as these, you feel that Istanbul is truly one of the most glorious cities in the world.

PALACES

Topkapi Palace

On a spot of land at the confluence of the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn and the Marmara Sea stands the Topkapi Palace , the maze of buildings at the center of the Ottoman Empire between the 15th and 19 th centuries.

In these opulent surroundings the sultans and their court lived and governed. A magnificent wooded garden fills the outer, or first, court. On the right of the second court, shaded by cypress and plane trees, stand the palace kitchens, now galleries exhibiting the imperial collection of crystal, silver and Chinese porcelain. To the left the Harem, the secluded quarters of the wives, concubines and children of the sultan, charms visitors with the echoes of the intrigue of centuries.

Today the third court holds the Hall of Audience, the Library of Ahmet III, an exhibition of imperial costumes worn by the sultans and their families, the famous jewels of the treasury and a priceless collection of miniatures from medieval manuscripts.

In the center of this innermost sanctuary, the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle enshrines the relics of the Prophet Mohammed brought to Istanbul when the Ottomans assumed the caliphate of Islam.

Now Istanbul 's most popular museum, the palace is open every day except Tuesday.

Dolmabahce Palace

Built in the mid-19th century by Sultan Abdülmecit I, the facade of Dolmabahce Palace stretches for 600 meters along the European shore of the Bosphorus. The vast reception salon, with 56 columns, and a huge crystal chandelier weighing four and a half tons and lit by 750 lights never fails to astonish visitors.

At one time, birds from all over the world were kept in the Bird Pavilion for the delight of the palace's privileged residents. Atatürk, founder of the Turkish Republic , died in Dolmabahce on the 10th November, 1938 .

Open every day except Monday and Thursday.

Beylerbeyi Palace

In the 19th century Sultan Abdülaziz built the Beylerbeyi Palace , a fantasy in white marble amid magnolia filled gardens, on the Bosphorus's Asian shore. Used as the Sultan's summer residence and hunting lodge, it was offered to the most distinguished foreign dignitaries during their visits. Empress Eugenie of France was among its residents.

Open every day except Monday and Thursday.

Yildiz Palace

In addition to the State Pavilions at the Yildiz Palace , the compound includes a series of pavilions and a mosque. It was completed by Abdülhamit II at the end of the 19th century. The Sale (chalet), the largest and most exquisite of the buildings, reveals the luxury in which the Sultans lived and entertained. Set in a very large park of flowers, plants and trees, gathered from every part of the world, the palace grounds offer one of the most beautiful panoramic views of the Bosphorus. Because of restoration work, only the Sale and park are open to the public.

Open every day except Monday and Thursday.

Göksu Palace

The Göksu Palace , also known as Kücüksu, takes its name from the fresh water streams which debauch into the Bosphorus near the tiny palace. Built by Abdülmecit I in the middle of the 19th century, it was used as a summer residence.

Open every day except Monday and Thursday.

Aynali Kavak Summer Pavilion

Originally built in the 18th century and later restored by various sultans, the Aynali Kavak Summer Pavilion assumed its name, Mirrored Poplar, when its famed mirrors, a gift from the Venetians, were installed in 1718.This palace on the Golden Horn is one of the most beautiful examples of traditional Turkish architecture.

Open every day except Monday and Thursday.

Ihlamur Pavillion

The 19th century Ihlamur Pavillion is named after the linden trees that grow in its gardens. Now in the heart of metropolitan Istanbul , when it was originally constructed the pavillion lay in the rolling countryside that surrounded the city. The Merasim Pavillion was used for official ceremonies while the Maiyet Pavillion sheltered the sultan's entourage and on occasions, his harem during their excursions out of the palace confines.

Open every day except Monday and Thursday.

Maslak Pavilion

The Maslak Pavilion on a shady green hill were conceived by Sultan Abdülaziz as hunting lodges and are superb examples of the late 19th century Ottoman decorative style. The Limonluk Green House is particularly noteworthy.

Open every day except Monday and Thursday.

  MOSQUES

Mosque Etiquette

Most overseas visitors know how they should behave in a mosque instinctively. However, having seen tourists mimicing muslims at prayer, it is worth noting that there is an expected code of conduct. It is always important to remember when visiting mosques, that they are places of worship. Shoes cannot be worn inside for cleanliness reasons, and conservative dress codes are normally required. In most mosques, women are requested to cover their heads.

Blue Mosque

Facing St. Sophia stands the supremely elegant, six-minaret, imperial Sultanahmet Mosque. Built between 1609 and 1616 by the architect Mehmet, the building is more familiarly known as the Blue Mosque because its interior gleams with a magnificent panelling of blue and white Iznik tiles. During the tourist season an evening light and sound show both entertains and informs.

Süleymaniye Mosque

The cascading domes and four slender minarets of Süleymaniye Mosque dominate the skyline on the Golden Horn 's west bank. Considered the most beautiful of all imperial mosques in Istanbul , it was built between 1550 and 1557 by Sinan, the renowned architect of the Ottoman golden age. On the crest of a hill, the building is conspicuous for its great size, which the four minarets that rise from eachcorner of the courtyard emphasize.

Inside, the mihrab (prayer niche) and the mimber (pulpit) are of finely carved white marble; fine stained glass windows color the incoming streams of light. It was inthe gardens of this complex that Süleyman and his wife Hürrem Sultan had their mausolea built, andnear here also that Sinan built his own tomb. The mosque complex also includes four medrese, ortheological school of medicine, a caravanserai, a Turkish bath, and a kitchen and hospice for the poor.

Rüstem Pasa Mosque

Another skillful accomplishment of the architect Sinan, the Rüstem Pasa Mosque was built in 1561 on the orders of Rüstem Pasa, Grand Vizier and son-in-law of Süleyman the Magnificent. Exquisite Iznik tiles panel the small and superbly proportioned interior.

Fatih Mosque

The imperial Fatih Mosque, constructed between 1463 and 1470, bears the name of the Ottoman conqueror of Istanbul , Fatih Sultan Mehmet, and is the site of his mausoleum. Standing atop another of Istanbul 's hills, its vast size and great complex of religious buildings-- medreses, hospices, baths, a hospital, a caravanserai and a library-- make it well worth a visit.

Eyüp Mosque

The great Mosque of Eyüp lies outside the city walls, near the Golden Horn , at the supposed place where Eyüp, the standard bearer of the Prophet Mohammed, died in the Islamic assault on Constantinople in 670. The first mosque built after the Ottoman conquest of the city, this greatly venerated shrine attracts many pilgrims.

Yeni Mosque

Built between 1597 and 1663, the Yeni (New) Mosque hovers over the harbor at Eminönü greeting the incoming ferryboats and welcoming tourists to the old city. Today its graceful domes and arches shelter hundreds of pigeons who make this area their home. Marvelous Iznik tiles decorate the sultan's balcony.

Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Mosque

The 16th century Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Mosque built in an awkwardly shaped plot on a steeply sloping hill near Sultanahmet is one of the most beautiful examples of classical Turkish architecture and a masterpiece of the architect Sinan. Inside, breathtaking blues, greens, purples and reds color the elegant designs of the Iznik tiles.

Mihrimah Sultan Mosque

Walls of glass fill the four immense arches that support the central dome at the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque inside the Edirne gate of the old city walls. One hundred and sixty-one windows illuminate this mosque, built by Sinan for Mihrimah Sultan, the daughter of Süleyman the Magnificent, in 1555.

  MUSEUMS

As befits its position in history and popularity with tourists, Istanbul has a wealth of museums from the famous to the obscure. Visitors to this magnificent city will find themselves spoilt for choice.

The Basilica of St. Sophia

Now called the Ayasofya Museum , this is unquestionably one of the finest buildings of all time. Built by Constantine the Great and reconstructed by Justinian in the 6th century, its immense dome rises 55 meters above the ground and its diameter spans 31 meters. You should linger here to absorb the building's majestic serenity and to admire the fine Byzantine mosaics.

Location: Sultan Ahmet District Opening: Every day except Monday

The Archaeological Museum

Located just inside the first court of Topkapi Palace. The recently renovated Archaeological Museum includes the celebrated Alexander Sarcophagus among its treasures of antiquity. Originally created to showcase the archaeological treasures of the Ottoman empire , it contains finds from the Middle East and North Africa in addition to Anatolia . The Museum of the Ancient Orient displays artifacts from the Sumerian, Babylonian, Assyrian, Hatti and Hittite civilizations.

Treasures from the world famous Troy (located in Canakkale), are displayed in the museums largest exhibiton.

Location: Sultan Ahmet District Opening: Every day except Monday

Museum of Turkish Ceramics

Originally built as a kösk or pavilion by Mehmet the Conqueror in the 15th century, the Cinili Kösk, which houses the Museum of Turkish Ceramics , contains beautiful Iznik wares from the 16th century and fine examples of Seljuk and Ottoman pottery and tiles.
Open every day except Monday.

St. Irene Museum

Like the Ayasofya museum, the St. Irene Museum was originally a church. It ranks , in fact, as the first church built in Istanbul . Constantine commissioned it in the fourth century and Justinian later had the church restored. Reputedly the building stands on the site of a pre-Christian Temple .

Location: Sultan Ahmet District Opening: Every day except Monday

Museum of Turkish and Islamic art

The dark stone building that houses the Museum was built in 1524 by Ibrahim Pasa, Grand Vizier to Süleyman the Magnificent, as his residence. It was the grandest private residence ever built in the Ottoman Empire . Today it holds a superb collection of ceramics, metalwork, miniatures, calligraphy, textiles, and woodwork as well as some of the oldest carpets in the world.

Location: Sultan Ahmet District Opening: Every day except Monday

Museum of Turkish Carpets

Across the street from the Ibrahim Pasha Palace is the Museum of Turkish Carpets which contains exquisite antique carpets and Kilims (rugs) gathered from all over Turkey .

Location: Sultan Ahmet District Opening: Every day except Sunday & Monday

Yerebatan Sarayi (Underground Cistern)

Near St. Sophia is the sixth century Byzantine cistern known as the Yerebatan Sarayi. Three hundred and thirty-five massive Corinthian columns support the immense chamber's fine brick vaulting.

Location: Sultan Ahmet District Opening: Every day except Tuesday

The Mosaic Museum

The Mosaic Museum preserves in situ exceptionally fine mosaic pavements of the fifth and sixth centuries which remain from the Great Palace of the Byzantine emperors.

Location: Sultan Ahmet District Opening: Every day except Monday

Kariye Museum

The 11th century church of St. Savior in Chora, the Kariye Museum , is after St. Sophia, the most important Byzantine monument in Istanbul . Unremarkable in its architecture, inside , the walls are decorated with superb 14th century frescoes and mosaics. Illustrating scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary, these brilliantly colored paintings embody the vigor of Byzantine art. Restored wooden houses in the area surrounding the church offer tea and coffee in a relaxed atmosphere far removed from the city's hectic pace.

Location: Edirne Kapi Opening: Every day except Tuesday

The Aviation Museum

Located in Yesilköy, close to the airport, this museum traces the development of air flight in Turkey .

Location: Yesilköy Opening: Every day except Monday

Military Museum

The great field tents used by the Ottoman Armies on campaigns are displayed in the Military Museum . Other exhibits include Ottoman weapons and the accoutrements of war. The Mehter Takimi (Ottoman Military Band) perform Ottoman Marshal music between 3:00 and 4:00 p.m.

Location: Harbiye, close to Taksim Square . Opening: Every day except Monday and Tuesday.

Atatürk Museum

The house in which Atatürk lived in Sisli now serves as the Atatürk Museum and displays his personal effects.

Location: Sisli.   Opening: Every day except Saturday and Sunday.

Naval Museum

In the Besiktas district the Naval Museum displays the great imperial caiques in which the sultans were rowed across the Bosphorus, as well as many other interesting exhibits of Ottoman naval history.

Location: Besiktas, by the ferry port.   Opening: Every day except Saturday and Sunday.

Museum of Fine Arts

Also in Besiktas , the Museum of Fine Arts displays Turkish paintings and sculptures from the end of the 19th century to the present day.

Location: Besiktas, by the ferry port. Opening: Every day except Monday and Tuesday.

City Museum

The City Museum preserves and documents the history of Istanbul since the Ottoman conquest.

Location: Yildiz Park , near Çirağan Palace Hotel Opening: Every day except Thursday.

Sadberk Hanim Museum

A private museum which originally displayed Turkish decorative arts, it has recently been expanded with a new collection of archaeological finds.

Location:The village of Büyükdere on the Bosphorus Opening: Every day except Wednesday.

MONUMENTS

In addition to the palaces, mosques, churches and museums, Istanbul 's skyline and road sides are adorned with an array of monuments to its special past.

These are the remains of the many spendid civilisations for which this city is famous. The visitor will discover many of these almost by accident.

The Ahmet III Fountain

Built in 1729, the fountain stands at the entrance to Topkapi Palace . Deep overhanging eaves shade the water spouts where the parched could stop for a cup of refreshing water. This highly ornate, free-standing fountain is a superb example of the late Ottoman style.

Beyazit Tower

Mahmut II built the Beyazit Tower (85 meters high) in 1828 as a fire tower. Today it stands within the grounds of Istanbul University . Although it is not open to the public, its height means that it very visible from many parts of the city.

The Bozdogan-Valens Aquaduct

Built in 368 A.D. to supply the Byzantine and later the Ottoman palaces with water. Today part of the remaining 900 meters of double-tiered arches straddle the major highway that runs through the old part of town. Other parts of this system can be seen in Belgrade Forest outside of the city.

The City Walls

These walls, once an impenetrable fortification, stretch seven kilometers from the Sea of Marmara to the Golden Horn . Restored recently, and many times previously, these walls date from the fifth century and the reign of Emperor Theodosius II. UNESCO has declared the land walls, and the area which they enclose, to be one of the cultural heritages of the world. The walls include the Yedi Kale (seven towers) fortress.

The Galata Tower

A Genoese construction of 1348, rises 62 meters high over the Golden Horn . From the top you see a marvelous panorama of the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. In the evening tourists enjoy its popular restaurant, night club and bar.

Rumeli Hisari

The European Fortress, was built by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1452 prior to his capture of Istanbul . Completed in only four months, it is one of the most beautiful works of military architecture in the world. The castle is open to the public except on Mondays. In summer concerts are held in the grounds.

Anadoluhisari

The Anatolian Fortress is a 14th century relic of the Ottoman's first attempt to conquer Istanbul , Anatolia Fortress is located on the Asian shore at the narrowest point of the Bosphorus. Sultan Yildirim Bayezit built this fortress in 1393 on the ruins of a Byzantine temple of Zeus .

Leander's Tower

Also called Kiz Kulesi, this building is one of the romantic symbols of Istanbul . First constructed in the 12th century on a tiny island at the entrance to Istanbul 's harbor, the present building dates from the 18th century.

BOSPHORUS

A stay in Istanbul is not complete without the traditional and unforgettable boat excursion up the, the winding strait that separates Europe and Asia . Its shores offer a delightful mixture of past and present, grand splendor and simple beauty. Modern hotels stand next to yali ( shore-front wooden villas), marble palaces abut rustic stone fortresses, and elegant compounds neighbor small fishing villages.

The best way to see the Bosphorus is to board one of the passenger boats that regularly zigzag along the shores. You embark in Eminönü and stop alternately on the Asian and European sides of the strait. The round trip excursion , at a very reasonable cost, takes about six hours. If you wish a private voyage, you can contact one of the agencies which specialize in organizing day or night mini-cruises.

During the journey you pass in front of the magnificent Dolmabahce Palace ; farther along rise the green parks and imperial pavilions of Yildiz Palace . On the edge of this park, on the coast, stands the Ciragan Palace now restored as a grand hotel. Refurbished in 1874 by Sultan Abdülaziz, it stretches for 300 meters along the Bosphorus shore, its ornate marble facades reflecting the swiftly moving water.

At Ortaköy, the next stop, artists gather every Sunday to exhibit their works in a street side gallery. The variety of people create a lively scene; sample a delicious bite from one of the street vendors. Overshadowing the traditional architecture of the village,the Bosphorus Bridge , one of the world's largest suspension bridges, links Europe and Asia .

The beautiful Beylerbeyi Palace lies just past the bridge on the Asian side. Behind the palace rises Camlica Hill, the highest point of Istanbul. You can drive here to admire the magnificent panorama of Istanbul as well as the beautiful landscaped gardens.

On the opposite shore, the wooden Ottoman villas of Arnavutköy contrast with the luxurious modern apartments of neighboring Bebek. A few kilometers farther out, facing each other across the straits like sentries guarding the city, stand the fortresses of Rumeli Hisari and Anadolu Hisari.

The Göksu Palace , sometimes known as Kücüksu Palace graces the Asian shore next to the Anadolu Hisari. The recently completed second link between the two continents, the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge straddles the waterway just past the two fortresses. 

From Duatepe Hill, on the European side, you can admire the magnificent panorama of the bridge and the Bosphorus. Below Duatepe, the beautiful Emirgan Park with its delightful pavilions bursts with color when the tulips bloom in the spring. Opposite on the Asian shore is Kanlica, a fishing village now a favored suburb for wealthy Istanbulites. Crowds gather in the restaurants and cafes along its shores to sample its famous yoghurt.

Shortly after Kanlica, at Cubuklu, the Hidiv Palace emerges from a tranquil grove. Now a hotel, the palace buzzes with the activity of concerts and conferences. Past the Hidiv Palace , the Beykoz Korusu (Abraham Pasa) Korusu Woods are a popular retreat. Complete with cafes and restaurants you can enjoy the delightful views and clear fresh air. On the European side, at Tarabya Bay , yachts seem to dance at their moorings. The coast road bustles with taverns and fish restaurants from Tarabya until the charming villages of Büyükdere and Sariyer. A little further on the narrow strait widens and disappears into the Black Sea .

The Golden Horn , a horn-shaped estuary, divides European Istanbul. One of the best natural harbors in the world, the Byzantine and Ottoman navies and commercial shipping interests were centered here. Today, lovely parks and promenades line the shores. In the setting sun, the water shines a golden color.

Other Cities of the Marmara Region

A fast highway connects Istanbul with Izmit,the capital of Kocaeli province. An important city in Roman times when it was known as Nicomedeia, it is now a prosperous industrial center. The Saatci Efendi Konak, a restored typical 18th-century Ottoman Mansion , now serves as the Ethnological Museum . Pismaniye, the local sweet , consists of thousands of thin layers of stretched sugar.

Hereke, west of Izmit, is a major carpet making center. Renowned throughout the world for their beauty and quality, these carpets fetch the highest prices in Istanbul 's bazaars. On the Black Sea Coast , north of Izmit, particularly at Kerpe, Kefken and Kovanagzi, sandy beaches and comfortable guest houses attract vacationers.

East of Izmit, Sakarya is the provincial capital of Adapazari, an important agricultural and industrial region. The Sakarya (Sangarius) River waters this fertile land which abounds with fruit trees and fields of vegetables.In the city of Adapazari itself, the Atatürk and Ethnographical Museum displays personal effects of the founder of the Turkish Republic as well as regional artifacts. The Besköprü Bridge , built by the ByzantineEmperor Justinian in 553, stretches for 429 meters across the river. Eight arches connect the two shores.

A few kilometers away at lake Sapanca , quiet restaurants, hotels, and summer residences line the lakeshore. Istanbulites escape to this retreat in the Saman Mountain basin throughout the year. The Arifiye Forest on the highlands of Lake Sapanca , has nice camping and picnic areas and an excellent panoramic view of the lake below.

The Akgöl Lake lies just inland from the Black Sea Karasu holiday center; both places offer scenic surroundings. At Tarakli you can wander though a town that preserves many of its old buildings.

The province of Bilecik lies southeast of Iznik in the verdant and fertile Sakarya River valley. In the old quarter of the city stands the mausoleum of Seyh Edebali, who was an important influence in the founding of the Ottoman Empire . Every September, a commemorative ceremony and a culture festival are held here in his honour. The Orhan Gazi Mosque is near his tomb.

Set amid the numerous willows which give Sögüt its name, a detour to this town is well worth the effort. The migrating Kayi Turks first settled here, and the tomb of their leader Ertugrul Gazi stands in the town. In September a commemorative ceremony is held in his honor. Other tourist attractions include the life-size busts of famous figures from Turkish history and the Ethnographical Museum which traces, through its displays, the history of Turkey .

Formerly known as Nicaea , Iznik lies at the eastern tip of Lake Iznik , south of Izmit. Originally an important Roman and Byzantine town, it fell to the Seljuks in 1078 and subsequently to the Ottomans in 1331. Still a small town it does not seem to have exceeded its original Roman walls. The four gates which allowed access to the city still stand. In the town center the ruins of the St. Sophia Cathedral, the seat of the first Ecumenical Council of 325, evoke images of convening bishops and clergy. In the 16th and 17th centuries, Iznik was the center of the production of the exquisite ceramic wares which have made such an important decorative contribution to mosques and palaces throughout Turkey . A museum displays the finds from the nearby excavations. Among the important Islamic buildings in town, be sure to visit the turquoise tiled Yesil Mosque and the Nilüfer Hatun Imareti. After exploring the sights, the lakeside fish restaurants provide delicious food and a relaxing atmosphere.

Yenisehir, on the road to Bursa , is filled with many intersting and lovely old Turkish houses. The 18th-century Semaki Mansion , now restored as a museum, welcomes visitors.

Bursa

The city of Bursa , southeast of the Sea of Marmara , lies on the lower slopes of Uludag ( Mt. Olympos of Mysia ,2443 meters). The city derives its name from its founder Prusias, King of Bithynia. It subsequently came under Roman, then Byzantine rule before falling to Osman Bey in 1326 becoming the first capital of the Ottoman Empire . Many important Ottoman buildings remain.

Known as "Green Bursa", the city is filled with gardens and parks and overlooks a verdant plain. It is at the center of an important fruit growing region. Bursa was, and is still, famous for its silk trade, towel manufacture and thermal springs. You must taste locally invented Iskender Kebap, a dish of bread, tomato sauce, strips of grilled meat, melted butter and yoghurt. Candied chestnuts are another regional speciality.

A tour of the city begins in the eastern section at the Yesil Türbe (Green Mausoleum). Set in a garden and distinguished by its paneling of blue tiles, the mausoleum holds the tiled cenotaph of Sultan Mehmet I. Across the street, the Yesil of 1424 reflects the new Ottoman , as opposed to Seljuk, aesthetic. A medrese nearby completes the complex which is also home to the Ethnographical Museum . Before exploring this area, stop for a glass of tea in one of the traditional tea houses. Uphill, to the east, you pass by the Emir Sultan Mosque in its delightful setting, and after walking through a district of old houses you reach the Yildirim Beyazit(1391).

Now make your way to Cumhuriyet Square (known locally as Heykel) and stroll along Atatürk Avenue to Koza Park where outdoor cafes are set among flowers and fountains. At the back of the park, a long building, the Koza Han (1490), houses the trade in silk cocoons. From here you proceed to the covered bazaar area, with its narrow streets, caravanserais and bedesten. On the other side of Koza Park stands the Orhan Gazi Mosque built in 1413 and one of Bursa 's oldest religious buildings. Nearby the large Ulu Mosque was constructed in the Seljuk style. A finely carved walnut mimber and impressive calligraphic panels decorate the mosque. The Sadirvan (ablutions fountain) lies unusually within the mosque itself under the ceiling of twenty domes.

Walking west from the Ulu Mosque you arrive at Hisar, an old and picturesque quarter of Bursa . In the park that overlooks the valley are the mausoleums of Osman, the founder of the Ottoman Empire , and his son Orhan Gazi who commanded the army that conquered Bursa . The cafes of Tophane offer a good place to stop for refreshment. Nearby in Ressamlar Sokak (Artists' Street) local artists work in the open air.

At the Yildiz Park Tea Gardens in the Muradiye quarter, you get a superb view of the Muradiye Complex. The compound, in a tranquil park-like setting, contains the Mosque of Sultan Murat II (1426) built in the style ogf the Yesil Mosque and the tombs of Murat II, Cem and Sehzade Mustafa. These contain some of the loveliest decoration and tile-work. The nearby Ottoman House Museum in a restored 17th century dwelling provides an interesting glimpse into the lives of wealthy Ottomans.

Other places of interest in Bursa include the Culture Park with the Bursa Archaeological Museum , and the Atatürk Museum on the road to Cekirge.

The western suburb of Cekirge has been known since Roman times for its warm, mineral-rich springs. Many modern hotels have thermal bath facilities and you can also visit the old hamams. Yeni Kaplica (New Spring) was built by Süleyman the Magnificent's Grand Vizier, Rüstem Pasha, in 1552. The Eski Kaplica (Old Spring), built on the site of the original Byzantine baths, is the oldest bath. The Karamustafa Pasha baths are reputed to have the best hot mineral waters in Bursa . Buildings of interest in Cekirge include the Mosque and Mausoleum of Murat I and the tomb of Süleyman Celebi, a religious poet. The monument to Karagöz commemorates the character whose humorous antics are immortalized in Turkish shadow puppet theater.

Uludag is the largest winter sports center in Turkey and offers a variety of activities, accommodation and entertainment. Thirty-six kilometers from Bursa , the slopes are easily reached by car or cable car ( teleferik). December to May are the best months for skiing, although the area, which is a national park, is well worth a visit at any time of the year for the lovely views and wonderful fresh air.

A seaside resort town 25 km from Bursa , Mudanya's fine fish restaurants and nightclubs are popular with the residents of Bursa . Th Armistice Museum is worth a visit. Just 12 km from Mudanya, Zeytinbagi (Tirilye) exemplifies the architecture and layout of a typical Turkish town.

The Gulf of Gemlik , 29 km from Bursa has wide sandy beaches; Armutlu and Kumla are the favorites.

Balikesir

The province of Balikesir borders both the Marmara and Aegean regions. In the capital of Balikesir, nature and interesting historical sites blend in harmony. The mid-14th century Yildirim Mosque, built by Beyazit I, is the city's oldest mosque. Of Zagnos Pasa Mosque, built in 1461 by Mehmet the Conqueror's Grand Vizier Zagnos Pasa, once part of a great complex, only the mosque and bath remain today. The Saat Kulesi (Clock Tower) built in 1827 by Mehmet Pasa imitates the Genoese Galata Tower on a smaller scale. The Karesi Bey Mausoleum of 1336 contains the cenotaphs of Karasi Bey and his five sons.

The beautiful Degirmen Bogazi , an area ten kilometers from Balikesir towards Bursa lies between two hills. Families flock to this scenic spot and its restaurants during weekends and holidays. At Karakol village, photographers can capture the three picturesque windmills on film. Ancient Penderamus, now called Bandirma, is today an important commercial and industrial harbor second only to Istanbul . You can spend a pleasant afternoon in the town's restaurants and cafes. Belkis (Kyzikos) lies ten kilometers west of Bandirma. In this ancient city on the Kapidag Peninsula 's isthmus, the Temple of Hadrian , a theater and aquaducts still stand, captivating visitors.

The Kuscenneti National Park near Lake Manyas is an ornithological site where 239 different species of birds flourish. Every year over three million birds fly through this preserve. April and May are the best months to enjoy the wildlife. Thirteen kilometers southeast of Bandirma in Karacabey, horse farms breed magnificent specimens of this beloved animal.

Once known as ancient Erteka, Erdek is just 14 km northwest of Bandirma. One of the Sea of Marmara 's oldest and most famous resort areas, it offers pristine beaches and every type of accommodation.

Marmara Island , formerly known as Prokonessos, rose to prominence in the Roman period and retained its importance in the Byzantine and Ottoman periods, because of its marble quarries, which supplied the luxurious stone for the extravagant imperial building programs. Near Saraylar village, Marble Beach derives its name from the natural marble that lies just off the water's edge. In town, an open-air museum displays artifacts which date back to Roman and Byzantine times, and the marble quarry, where tourists can see every step of the quarrying process.

Türkeli (Avsa) is another holiday island that boasts of spectacular beaches and clear water as well as famous vineyards and and wine cellars. In the Manastir district stands the Byzantine Meryem Ana Monestery.

Fifty-five kilometers southwest of Bandirma, Gönen is Turkey 's most important thermal resort. The springs were used even in Roman times and a fifth-century mosaic remains from what was originally a Roman bath. These waters come from 500 meters below the ground and emerge heated at approximately 82C. Another 30 km to the northwest, Denizkent is a nice vacation spot with lovely beaches.

Sindirgi lies at the base of the Alacam Mountains amid beautiful forests and meadows in a region known for the weaving of superb Turkish carpets. The rugs of Yagcibedir are among the most prized in the country and grow more lovely the older they become.

Around the Gulf of Edremit , also in Balikesir province, are some of the most beautiful coastlines in the country where the clear waters meet sandy beaches encircled by the silvery green of olive groves. Ayvalik, Burhaniye, Ören, Edremit, Akcay, and Altinoluk are all holiday towns which attract vacationers interested in a relaxing holiday, with beautiful scenery, and a wealth of historical and archaeological sites.

The Canakkale Bogazi is an ideal vacation spot, lined with bays and beaches of the Gelibolu Peninsula on the European side, and the larger Biga Peninsula on the Asian side. The city of Canakkale lends its name to the straits that connect the Sea of Marmara to the Aegean and whose shores touch both Europe and Asia . Familiar historical names associated with this area include Troy , Neandria, Alexandria Troas, assos, Chryse, Dardanos and Lampsakos. In 1915, Mustafa Kemal, commander of the Turkish army, led a successful campaign to drive out the Allied Powers from the area.

To honor the 500,000 soldiers who gave their lives on Gelibolu, or Galliopoli, this peninsula is now a National Park, and includes memorial monuments, the Ariburnu Cliffs and Tuz Gölü.

The town of Biga has lent its name to its whole peninsula. A town of parks, it is a good place to see houses built in a traditional style. The closest beaches are at Karabiga and Kemer, where you will find reasonably prices accommodations. Karabiga was known in ancient times as Priapos, after the god, and thus has cult and fertility associations. Can is well known for its ceramics and sulphur springs, said to be helpful in various disorders of the liver, intestine, and urinary tract. There are two other hot springs at nearby Külcüler and Kirazli.

On the opposite northern shore of the Sea of Marmara , Tekirdag is an commercial harbor. From both sides of this modern city of lovely promenades stretch beautiful sandy beaches. A happy mixture of sunflower fields and vineyards cover the surrounding area. The most important architectural monument is the Sinan designed Rüstem Pasha Mosque, built by Suleyman the Magnificent's Grand Vizier in 1554. The Archaeological and Ethnographical Museum displays an extensive collection of artifacts from the area. The Rakoczy Museum occupies the house where the Hungarian prince , Rakoczy Ferench II (1676-1735), who fought for his people's liberation, lived out the last years of his life. The Namik Kemal Memorial (1840-1888) honors the birthplace of the Turkish National Poet. Sixty kilometers west of Tekirdag, the holiday center of Sarköy, and Mürefte is a renowned winetasting region; beautiful vineyards cover the entire area, and the city hosts a wine festival every year.

Edirne

North of Tekirdag on the border between Greece and Turkey , Edirne was for some years the Ottoman capital, and in the 18th century one of the seven largest cities in Europe . On a verdant plain of poplar trees near the junction of the Tunca and Meric Rivers , this graceful historical city welcomes visitors as they make their way to Istanbul and other points east. The people of the Edirne Area trace their origins beyond the rule of the Macedonians. The Roman emperor Hadrian rebuilt the city and renamed it Hadrianople after himself. With the division of the Roman Empire , the Byzantines claimed Edirne and in 1361 Sultan Murat I added it to his empire.

Its position for almost 100 years as capital of the Ottoman Empire accounts for its many historically and architecturally important buildings. With its mosques, religious complexes, bridges, old bazaars, caravanserais and palaces, Edirne is a living museum.

The Selimiye Mosque is the city's focal point. Occupying the top of a hill, Sinan's design reflects the classical Ottoman style. Built on the orders of Sultan Selim II, (1569-1575) it testifies to the technological abilities of the day and the genius of the Ottoman's master architect.

Built between 1403 and 1414 by Mehmet I, the Eski Mosque is the oldest Ottoman structure in Edirne . The white marble of the portal contrasts with the building's cut stone and brick masonry. Calligraphic inscriptions of Koranic verses decorate the interior.

The Üc Serefeli Mosque, built between 1438 and 1447 by Murat I, presages the great period of Ottoman mosque architecture under Sinan and embodies both a new freedom from restraint and advances in engineering. The northwest minaret has three galleries, hence the mosque's name and was the highest minaret until those of the Selimiye Mosque eclipsed it.

Towards the end of the 15th century, Beyazit II commissioned the architect Hayrettin to build him a complex in Edirne which includes a mosque, Darüssifa (hospital), medrese, kitchen and store rooms. The mosque is square in plan and covered with a deep dome; over 100 domes roof the remainder. The most important of the other buildings is the Darüssifa which stood out in its time as a modern hospital with a unique and humane architectural design.

Little has changed in the Kaleici section of Edirne since the Middle Ages. Narrow streets lined with houses wind through the area. The number of small restaurants and cafes reflect the district's renaissance.

Sinan built several of the famous baths in Edirne including the Sokullu, Tahtakale, Mezit Bey, Beylerbeyi and Gazi Mihal hamams. His work is also seen in the Ahmet Pasha Caravanserai and the Rüstem Pasha Caravanserai of 1561. The latter has been renovated and serves as a charming hotel. The old bedesten of the early 15th century still functions as Edirne 's main market. As you drive around the area you will notice many lovely Ottoman bridges gracing the Tunca and Meric Rivers .

Edirne has retained many of its colorful traditions and customs. Every summer where the Tunca River divides an emerald green meadow is created called Sarayici, where the Kirkpinar Greased Wrestling Contests are held. Shiny, slippery bodies grapple to determine who will emerge as champion.

As you walk through the city and peer into the corners of the grocery stores, you see blocks of white feta cheese, a local speciality. Hardaliye, another of the city's delicacies, is a grape drink mixed with mustard and marzipan. Scented soaps, earthenware pots and straw baskets from Edirne make good souvenirs. You will find it difficult to resist the beautiful embroidery work of the local women.

The Archaeological and Ethnographical Museum traces the history of the area from prehistoric to Byzantine times and exhibits clothing from the late Ottoman period. At the Turkish Islamic Art Museum examples of Ottoman architectural details, calligraphy, manuscripts, Korans, weapons, glass and an imperial tent used on military campaigns are displayed.

On the way to the Saroz Gulf in the Aegean Sea , you can stop at Uzunköprü to see an interesting bridge spanning the Ergene River , built by Murat II in 1444. Its 174 arches , the highest of which is 12.28 meters, make up its 1354 meter length. The mild climate and beautiful surroundings on the Saroz Gulf invite holiday makers for a break of relaxation. On the northern point of the gulf are the lovely Ibrice and Erikli beaches. Here or in Edirne , the hotel and guest-house facilities are plentiful and reasonably priced.

The Yildiz (Istranca) Mountains divide the province of Kirklareli . Lush mountainous landscape dotted with quaint houses transports you to an idyllic and tranquil frame of mind. The city of Kirklareli 's oldest mosque, the Hizir Bey Mosque, was built in 1388. Nearby stands a hamam also built under Hizir Bey's patronage. The 14th-century Kirklar Memorial with its impressive 18 columns stands on Kirklar Hill honoring the site where 40 soldiers lost their lives when the Ottomans conquered this area under the command of Murat I.

Kirklareli's Black Sea Coast is another place to enjoy beaches and good fish restaurants . Igneada, 98 km east of Kirklareli, lies squeezed between its sandy shores and the Yildiz Mountains . Kiyiköy is another holiday resort town with good accommodation.

The Sokollu Mosque in Lüleburgaz, on the Edirne-Istanbul road, is an exquisite work of Sinan's that dates from 1570. The neighboring town of Babaeski also boasts a Sinan building in the Ali Pasha Mosque.

If you are travelling north to Bulgaria , linger for a few hours at the peaceful and green town of Dereköy , the last stop before the border.